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  1. #11

  2. #12
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    El Roacho's Avatar

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    huthbot finally shows his virtual, non-avatar face on gigposters. he and i have decided on burning the press.

  3. #13
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by El Roacho View Post
    hey thanks squeegee, a great checklist for me to go through. i think i've narrowed it down to a new durometer blade or maybe a stronger vacuum. the blade that's on there is pretty stiff, maybe a 90? every auto press i've ever operated prior has had a 70 so i figure i'll pick one of those up.
    We use a 5 layered squeegee. Hands down worth every penny. (the white,blue,red,blue,white blade)
    http://www.encoreenginc.com/pdf/FT_HR5_GB.pdf
    Last edited by squeegeethree; 07-04-2014 at 02:38 PM.

  4. #14
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    El Roacho's Avatar

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    woah, any suggestions on which? high modulus? what does that even mean?

  5. #15
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by huthbot View Post
    When we flip the flood bar around we are literally flooding and printing with the flood bar

    But you'd think just hammering pressure on the squeegee would cause it to clear the screen regardless of the vacuum.

    thanks for the help everybody we appreciate it and we will consider all this and future input and keep you updated as we continue to work through the issue.
    \

    Order a flood bar with a steeper angle. They come in 2 angles generally.
    At some point you can add so much pressure that it does the opposite of what you want. This is indicative of when the squeegee is folding over. Make sure you are just printing with the edge.

    Also this is a key noob thing to know(your not a noob but I'll say it anyway). With an auto you can add so much pressure to one side that you end up taking pressure off the other side. SO without a screen in the press, put the squeegee in the press and lower it down to the press so it's perfectly even on both sides. It's helpful to have a thin sheet of regular paper and slide it under the blade until it just gets pinched. Then back off and do the same with the other side. Then run the press and stop the squeegee in different spots to see if it remains true.

    You can test your vacuum bed by putting one sheet of glassine or tissue over the whole bed then turning the vacuum on. Your vacuum should be strong enough to slightly pull the glassine down into the holes (at least ours are). Then you can spot weak flow due to clogged holes. Who knows maybe the previous owner dumped a gallon of ink on one side of the press (I've seen that happen)

  6. #16
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Our Sias loses pressure on one side only when it's time to change the oil in the gear box that's why I stated that before.

  7. #17
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    "woah, any suggestions on which? high modulus? what does that even mean?"

    An elastic modulus, or modulus of elasticity, is a number that measures an object or substance's resistance to being deformed elastically (i.e., non-permanently) when a force is applied to it.

    We use the low modulus one.

    You can order the HR5 LM from Nazdar.
    Last edited by squeegeethree; 07-04-2014 at 02:56 PM.

  8. #18
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    El Roacho's Avatar

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    thank you so much squeegee, that is a TON of useful knowledge and resource. time to make a new checklist and go through it!

  9. #19
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    Andymac's Avatar

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    a shitty hard squeegee won't print well.

    that sounds weird re the floodbar.
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

  10. #20
    andydiesel's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by squeegeethree View Post
    We use a 5 layered squeegee. Hands down worth every penny. (the white,blue,red,blue,white blade)
    http://www.encoreenginc.com/pdf/FT_HR5_GB.pdf
    I have to give this another try, it didn't work out all that well for us on the UV inks. I have no idea why, it seems like it would be perfect for our shop. I do love serilor squeegees, right now our main blade is the vulcanized green/white/green. I think its 70/90/70.

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