I'd be happy to take anyone's old throw-away aluminum frames off their hands, 20x24 and up.. Made the mistake of buying only wood frames, and now they're starting to warp.. Live and learn..
I'd be happy to take anyone's old throw-away aluminum frames off their hands, 20x24 and up.. Made the mistake of buying only wood frames, and now they're starting to warp.. Live and learn..
Toledo or Milford isn't too bad for a day trip if I load up the ol'wagon full of old ones and I really want new bigger ones, like I said 30"x40" and 36"x36"...I checked again locally no dice, except some mom and pop shop that does like sports team shirts, but dude didn't even know what kind of mesh he uses, I asked if he used saati, sefar, murakami, etc. he was like whatever I can get, so sounds sketchy, I don't want that cheap crap with thick ass threads and hardly any open area.
And Andy how much of a difference are those green screens and say the Hix retensionables or shur-loc, looks the same
here, these guys are in Ohio, they have stock and do custom sizes
http://www.fourpointsprintingsupplies.com/
Similar to the shurloc I guess, but frame panels are less than half the price, the tool is like a 10th the price, and the frames are about half the price.
the hix I don't know the price. these are the ones with the corners that thread out? I've seen them, never used them.
I've used newmans and diamond chase, weay faster than both, and way cheaper. PLus they are square all around - this is nice, and a drawback to roller frames with one square side.
So my first reclaim of the screen frames... ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting ...I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner, super light and super sturdy...next will be a shelf unit
Nice, man! Are the frames welded together?
Nope just hex bolts with some nuts and washers, just pre-drill the holes with a standard drill bit (goes trough the aluminum easily enough) I only used four bolts on the screen frames one at the top and bottom of each side and it was rock solid, then four on the table top and sunk them below the surface and threw some wood filler over them, sanded the top, and a little shellac for durability...I may add some adjustable drafting table hardware like here... Adjustable Drafting Table Hardware - Rockler Woodworking Tools ...later on to have more adjustability.... you could make some pretty solid tables out of the frames just using a blank slab door 36"x80" (not the hollow ones) from lowes for like $40
I did the same thing about a month ago, but I used Gorilla Tape to hold the legs together in case I decided I wanted to use the frames as frames again some day. It's really surprisingly sturdy.
handy!